Stay Tuned!

Well, I've done a few reviews lately. I'm currently in the process of moving house, to a place where I will have a dedicated hobby room. A room in which I've literally had to resculpt a wall (think crumbling plasterwork). I'm looking forward to getting all my hobby stuff sorted.

I've been buying stuff to create a proper hobby room; I will review them if they are of any use to anyone, so please let me know;

1. Miniaturicum paint racks -   http://www.miniaturicum.de/index.php?infoBox=3&cPath=723
2. WaughGamestore - Basing materials.
3. P3 paint range.
4. Stewart Lee gig on Friday 11th (not really modelling related but you know...).
5. 'Eavy Metal guidebook, 'Eavy metal Brush Set.

Let me know... 

Steve

Review: How to paint Citadel Miniatures DVD.

The first line was "Remove the models from the box". I wasn't amazed straight off I must admit. The filming is set on a box of plastic Space Marines.

The first stage is a simple commentary on using plastic glue on plastic miniatures "add a little glue to each foot, and press to the base". There is a description on building finecast models. This is quite good in the sense that anyone who's been a GW fan but never bought resin (Forgeworld et al) will get some information.  in the construction and preperation of resin. I must say that in every tool used in the in the video is prefixed by "Citadel". "Citadel flash brush", "Citadel flash scraper", "Citadel Emery boards" etc.

Base paints: "If there are areas you don't want to paint a certain colour, don't paint on to them". Well, glory be. Must say, there's only so much you can say about a basecoat, and not unlike any tutorial, it is still explained in detail, when all the video is actually showing is paint being applied onto the model over the undercoat.

Washing: Simply shown as a consistent brushing of the shade paints onto the model. Explanation of what is called, section washing - allow one area of a wash to dry, before applying to another. This is good as it simply explains that, for one wash to touch another whilst wet, they will mix together and mess up.

Drybrushing: Standard, can be explained in words without the need of a dvd. Though some examples are shown which is good.

Glazing: Good, it's described in difference to washing or layering so you understand the difference between glazing and washing. Happy with this.

New technique for the application of decals I suppose, but in actuality it's something we've all done, just in a different fashion. Though they suggest using glaze medium (Lahmian medium) to dull down the shine to a matt finish, which is something I've not done before (though I've used matt varnish prior to dullcoting).

Basing and texture paints: Specifically designed for basing it would appear. Not sure I would use them for that, I'd maybe use them for mudding up tank tracks though I guess.

I am not going to slag this off based on the notion that GW have been foresighted in making this dvd and not assuming everyone who watches it, has a priori knowledge. What I will say is that in terms of the title, it's quite apt "How to paint Citadel Miniatures". In actuality, it's a case of how the colours produced in the Gw paint range revamp gel together to paint the models we know and love. Having a hierarchy of paints has done this, and  it is in a way, taking any artistic license away from the series. I am not a GW fanboy, nor am a I naysayer, my personal reaction to this has been to change the paint range I use - though I will still be using GW paints for some things as I understand some paints have simply been renamed and not changed.

In defence of the dvd, I am not a game player, never have actually played any GW games, but I love the models, the background and most of what GW produces model wise, so this dvd is fantastic for people who are players, who want to produce an army to play with and I acknowledge and applaud this. In effect, it is what it says it is, and if you had no experience in painting models of any range, this is fantastic, and many of the techniques and ideals are applied throughout my own painting style.

A very basic standard dvd and one I'd suggest purchasing if you are new to the hobby.
If you are a beginner, buy it. If you aren't, look at the Miniature Mentor series, or the Jennifer Haley, Natalya Melnik or Jeremie Bonamant Teboul DVDs. I personally very much like the Natalya Melnik and Miniature Mentor ones as I feel they compliment my style, so learning from such amazing artists work with my own progression.

Hope that is of some help.

Steve

Review: IA Model Masterclass Vol.2

Well, possibly the thing I've waited most for FW to produce since Vol.1 and this book does not disappoint.

Thanks to Maelstrom I managed to pick up a copy at the FW Open Day (FWOD) on 1st April. And thanks to that stroke of good fortune I managed to get mine signed by Simon Egan, Mark Bedford and Phil Stutchinkas (once he'd finished his lunch).

I must admit I was fairly sycophantic - in a good way - I was like "the first book was awesome, so glad you made it..." and "your Death Korps Artillery Emplacement is the best thing ever!"...

So, it's going to be very difficult to review this without comparing it to the first installment, however, there are a few things in the new book not covered in the first one.

To start with, as the first one, the whole book of 140 pages is full colour and glossy with lots of lovely big images. There are walkthroughs on whole models such as an Imperial and Chaos Reaver Titan, the Imperial One is the one which is similar to the one I have a photo of in the previous post painted by Phil Stutchinkas, he gives full in depth descriptions of how to attain the shiny plate armour and the weathering around the feet. Even better than this, on page 15 and 16 there is a lovely guide on how he created the knee plate heraldry, how it was weathered in and some technical details on creating a sized up transfer sheet. He also shows how lettering was weathered in.

In the first book it was mainly Imperial Guard Armour focused on, in this one there is a breadth of different faction types including Land Raiders, Eldar Titan, Thunderbolt Diorama, Titans, Chaos and Renegades. The bonus here is that different focuses are made, where Imperial Guard weathering looks great, there are different techniques shown for Eldar.

There is a guide to the Balmaeus Ice Mine gaming board, shown first at GD2011 and on show at FWOD, both construction and painting. The Raid on Kastorel Novem board is also shown, how it was built and painted.

I've been a bit careful showing off pages from the book (don't want to infringe). I've shown this one because it displays one of the best things about the book - the small blocks of tips on how to do small things, such as iconography in the example above, though there are others, weathering and transfers and small details on one of the best bits in the book; the Thunderbolt Diorama.

There is a small 2-3 page section on how to use weathering powders, the FW ones are used but obviously these also apply to MIG pigments or whatever you choose to use. This is handy as it is not applied contextually to a certain model and can be used on almost anything you choose.

New techniques shown:

Enamelling - marbling of a blue armour. Applicable to any colour.
Metallic banding - this is a nice one, used on metals especially, colour variations etc making large metallic areas more interesting.
Heat bloom - was shown in previous book, but, in more depth here.
Colour mottling/glazing - this is quite interesting, and very handy on large plates with large FW models, brass scorpion and titans for example.
Detailing of a model - similar to scale modelling, using brass rod and plate to extra detail a thunderbolt, quite interesting.
Using FW weathering powders - good stuff but admittedly fairly standard. I prefer the FAQ Dvd produced by MIG Jimenez.

I would say, that the techniques used in the book are not really for the beginner, and without an airbrush or many of the materials in the book, there's little in there for you.

All in all, a fantastic book, at £26 it's worth it, though I'd certainly advise buying the first if you don't already have it. Admittedly this isn't as ground-breaking as the first one, which is unsurprising but it certainly follows up the series admirably. Bring on the next one FW!


In other news, congratulations to the Sun newspaper for a fantastic headline today, regarding Abu Hamza "Sling the Hook Today!" hah.

Steve

Forgeworld Open Day 2012

Hi there,

I was in attendance at the FW Open Day (FWOD) on Sunday 1st April. Along with Rictus and Maelstrom from http://recalcitrantdaze.blogspot.co.uk/  and  http://maelstrom-therisingsign.blogspot.co.uk/ respectively. I knew full well that Rictus would take plenty of photos of the new stuff and given his better memory than mine he'd also remember some of what was said to us at the seminar. So yes, head to his blog for all of that stuff.

I decided to take a load of snaps of things I really liked the look of from the cabinets in the showcase room.

I adore the Sanguinor model.

 Note the princeps and crew for scale on the beastly titan...

 Amazing, from the IA Model Masterclass V.1. Favourite thing in the book, Phil Stutchinkas' trench with cannon and trojan model. Amazing!

These are just the things that took my eye...

On another note I have a few things listed on eBay. Take a look if you're interested. There's some models up there and more to come so keep checking. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sc-steve/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

Happy Huntin'

Steve

Stripping Miniatures

We all make mistakes from time to time, I once dated a girl from London.

So when we do, how do we deal with our mistakes, well, I didn't throw brake fluid in her face. But, we can use brake fluid to strip models...

Stripping models is fine. I've done it probably more times than I've painted a miniature. But don't aim for this, this is what I would call a negative ratio. And is crap.

What can we use - below I will outline the chemical arsenal I've used in the past few years.

Nitromors:
What it is actually used for? It's a paint and varnish remover. Usually for wood and metal. I've used it to get Hammerite from a gate before, and I didn't like it then.
What can I use it on? Metal models only. Unless you want plastic and resin models resembling an acid trip dream of fat people. 
What is it like for us and the environment? Awful, there's a lovely picture of fish floating upside down on the back of the tin. It will burn your skin pretty badly and its hydrophobic, when you add water (i.e. cleaning up after) it will go stringy and white, like whatever George Michael leaves on a toilet wall.
Recommendation: If its all you have and its a metal miniature you're stripping go for it. Takes less than 10 mins to use but protect your hands personally, I wouldn't suggest buying it for that purpose. Read on.

Brake Fluid:

What it is actually used for? High boiling point (~200c) glycol-ether based non-oil liquid used in the hydraulics of brakes and clutch (kinetic to pressure energy transfer).
What can I use it on? Plastic and metal... Use the dot4 variety, leave the models in it overnight and come back to it, scrub with a toothbrush and your models will be back to their original plastic or metal composition. Do not put resin in, it goes limp and floppy. 
What is it like for us and the environment? Pretty bad, don't dispose of in the drain. Doesn't do harm to my skin and my skin is pretty awfully ripped up.
Recommendation: I used it a lot, but not anymore. Its excellent in application but has problems in disposal. You also have to keep it out of the way of children and animals. Its a distinct carcinogen.

Dettol or pine scented cleaner:

What it is actually used for? Cleaning up that pathetic cut that kid got on his knee. And cleaning. And apparantly diluted can be used as mouthwash.
What can I use it on? Plastic, resin and metal.
What is it like for us and the environment? Fine, really. I mean I don't advise you put it in your fish tank but its a pine scented thing which is a human friendly cleaner.
Recommendation: This really works. Mix it with water (I go about 1:6) and leave your minis in it, it will strip them overnight. Be careful with resin, leave it in too long it will also go floppy and brittle. For that reason I leave it in for only an hour or two and then scrub. Resin strips slightly easier than plastic but is also brittle.

Oven spray:

What it is actually used for? Cleaning ovens. I've used it on walls before to get rid of grease (I come from a home that used to love chip pans*).
What can I use it on? Plastic, metal and resin.
What is it like for us and the environment? Not too bad, and is a product which can and will be flushed down the sink so don't worry too much. Though it will sting like a sod in any cuts on your hands.
Recommendation: I personally never had much luck with it, but I know people who have. This is probably a better idea if you don't want to buy something specifically because spouse or parent will have some (if not, then you should buy some, ovens are disgusting).

Hydrochloric Acid:

What it is actually used for? Well, I owned a bottle of 34% strength HCL (essentially 34 parts 100% HCL and 66 parts water its more complicated than this but I'm not going molar here) for the use of differentiation between carbonate and silicate rocks. Its great for this.
What can I use it on? Nothing.
What is it like for us and the environment? Awful.
Recommendation: This was a folly. But my mum thought I was a magician when I cleaned the back-yard.


Well, in summary. I use dettol for everything now. But my journey through the chemical world has taught me a lot, and shortened my life - nobody mention that I smoke.

* - A chip pan is a metal pan left over a burner on the hob, in which boiling hot oil is heated and vaporised so that the wall behind it looks like a yellow mushroom cloud. It's possibly the most dangerous item in the home, of English/Scotch people.

What's black and doesn't work

This blog, apparently. Apologies for the extremely sparse updating.

Not updating for 4 months is quite poor I must admit, even by my standards.

Things are busy at my end, but it's coming to a point where I will have some time to do some more models.

I have applied for a position as a volcanologist, which will also mean me moving house, and hopefully have a committed area to modelling and painting, which will be nice.

Anyway, forever in my thoughts...

Also note, a gallery page added - check it out, I will endeavour to update it.

Imperial Forces

Ok, I thought after the mad spending of the weekend I ought to list my army. Simply for my own reference. I think I probably have enough for a fair Krieg Army now...
Hash symbol denotes painted/partially painted or built...

• HQ
  Death Korps Command HQ
  Death Korps Quartermaster and Retinue
  Death Korps Commissars x2 #
• Elites
  Grenadier Squad
  Grenadier Special Weapons
  Grenadier Centaur
  Heavy Mortar and Crew
• Troops
  Death Korps Engineer Squad and Mole Launcher #
  Hades #
  Death Korps Platoon Command
  Death Korps Infantry Firing, Advancing and At Ease
• Fast Attack
  Death Rider Squad #
  Valkyrie
  Sentinel with Rockets #
  Sentinel Support
• Heavy Support
  Minotaur
  Macharius
  Malcador
  Heavy Earthshaker, Crew and Trojan
  Shadowsword
  Manticore
  

Steve

Games Day 2011

Well, after travelling to Birmingham yesterday and spending an enjoyable afternoon with Maelstrom - you may know him from TheRisingSign I went and stayed at the hotel, woke up late for GD, much to the dismay of,
Rictus, Maelstrom and LavaDave. Aaanyway, we arrived before 10am still, and I spent the day travelling around with Rictus, taking photographs.

The FW Display Area!

Here are some of my favourites.
Imperial Empalcement - hollow (light) display-terrain piece. Looks good, despite being very square...

 Dark Eldar somethingius.

 Another Dark Eldar somethingius.

 Crassus, not seen one in person so got a photo. Would be awesome to paint I think.

 New Rapier - an old style GW piece being remade. There's a little plate at the back so maybe they're going to do crewmen for it... Oooh, a Krieg Engineer crewman would be good!

Strange Warhammer Forge model, very not Warhammer actually, got other gaming system look to it, very creepy and as I say looks like something brand new in Warhammer.

Elysian concept art (Stormtroopers?).

Nurgle toads. These are MINT.

Rictus showed me this a few weeks ago and I loved it, one of my favourite GW models of the year (I don't rate Dark Eldar much). This is the oversize model (something to do with casting or something) it's like 4-5 times the size of the original. I got ahold of my copy of the model yesterday from Rictus so I'll get to painting it in a week or two. Whilst taking a photo of this, a fella in a GW shirt started talking to me, and I said how much I liked the model and "Who sculpted it", "me" was the reply. 

Some of my favourite Golden Demon entries - if you see yours please say! And remember these pictures are taken through glass with competing light sources so they're not always the best.

Golden Contemptor

Dreadnought smashing Tau backdoors in.

Not a clue.

GK Dreadnought I think. With Biffy Clyro lyrics on.

At the end of the day. Madness had set in.

Maelstrom, LavaDave and Mr. Feral

Anyway, good day had by all.
How was your experience?

Minor Update

Well, all I have left to do on the engineers is:

Aquillas, lenses, bases, weathering, transfers. I'm going to try and have them done before Tuesday. I started building my Hades today but there's a few faults with it so gonna take a bit of time to fix it up.

In other news, a few awesome blogs I found today.

Haekel and Jaekel.  Check out the step by steps. The squat one is good.
Mathieu Fontaine. These are incredible! Macharius, Russ, speeder, venator. Awesome stuff.

These are in French, but if you run them in Google Chrome it auto-translates.

In other news... 6 days!! :D

Steve

PIP Engineers #1

Firstly 16 days to go!

Right, Engineers are Paint in Progress. I'm doing 2 at a time, coat/armour/webbing then I'll do all 8 metallics and lenses, bases etc at the end (help tie them together).

I've gone for a reduced scale oakleaf camouflage, with fieldgrey armour. I'm very happy with the look as it is, and think it's definitely better than the initial black grey theme. I also think that these will tie with the troopers much better.

Squad of 7 men.

Converted Hades driver. (Arms brought closer together and lower) with backpack made from bits. Including a Thermite grenade!

Off for a pint now, hopefully do the next 2 this afternoon.

Steve

Props-aganda.

Well, a couple of years back Rictus did some terrain - before Cities of Death - constructing a beast of a building out of foamboard.

Well, that wasn't that interesting... But, then actually painted it and added some awesome stuff, like propaganda posters. He/she (maintain the mystery*) posted a sheet of 40k'ified propaganda posters. Which can be found here: http://recalcitrantdaze.blogspot.com/2011/08/propaganda-and-information-posters.html

And I had a go at making one for myself. Need to ask what size they need to be for accurate size printed but nevermind.

One he hasn't done yet -

NOT MINE:

Another I made:

Original:

* - Rictus may or may not be female.

Apologies

Apologies for the lack of updates everyone, I'm currently collecting data for my undergraduate dissertation which is taking a lot of time.
I quit smoking last week so there should be a lot more money going towards my hobby in the near future. After Games Day I hope to have a good bit of hobby time alongside my uni work.

I guess I need to retain people's attention, which is difficult, but in the near future I intend to do a lot of things. Not least, my big project for after GD which is the construction of a display board (and gaming though not oriented at that) table in trench patterns, with artillery and bunkers (including my own modular trench systems).

Apologies again, and I hope to update soon.

Steve

Krieg Pattern Sentinel

Well, finally here's something.

Not to keen on the highlighting, as it's not deep enough. Next time I'll do another stage. As far as this one is concerned think of it as a test subject.

Steve